AUTHOR: David
Richards
TITLE: The Big
Book Of Mischief
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This book is
dedicated to Ben, who made it possible, to Arthur, who helped
keep it going,
and to all the amateur pyrotechnicians who have lost their
lives, senses,
and limbs in the search for knowledge.
The processes
and techniques herein should
not be carried
out under any circumstances!!
On the advice of
my lawyer,I hereby state that I assume no responsibilities
for any use of
the information presented in this book. The intention of
this book is to
demonstrate the many techniques and methods used by persons
in this and
other countries to produce a number of conceivably hazardous
devices. None of
the statements herein should be taken to indicate the
opinions or
actions of the author. The techniques described here may be
found in public
libraries and all the information given is available from
public sources.
Any loss of life, property, or other perceived loss, injury
or harm is the
sole responsibility of the purchaser.
Any
instructions, formulas, and other statements herein are for
informational
purposes only.Although most of the procedures can be
accomplished
with minimal preparation and from easily available supplies,
this is a work
of fiction and no assumption should be made about the
accuracy or
safety of any of the procedures. This book is void where
prohibited, and
shall not be sold to any person who is ineligible to
receive it. If
you are under the age of 18, a convicted felon, mentally
retarded, or a
member of an organization that has as its stated or unstated
goals the
overthrow of the legitimate government of the United States of
America, you are
required to turn yourself in to the nearest officer of the
law without
delay.
RELEASE 1.5
COPYRIGHT 1993
ALL RIGHTS
RESERVED
Table of
Contents
SAFETY . . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Basic Safety
Rules. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
How To Mix Dry
Ingredients. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
BUYING
EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Propellants . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Explosives. . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
PREPARATION OF
CHEMICALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
EXPLOSIVE
FORMULAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Explosive
Theory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Impact
Explosives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Low Order
Explosives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
High Order
Explosives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Other Reactions
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
COMPRESSED GAS
BOMBS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Bottled Gas
Explosives. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Dry Ice Bombs .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
USING EXPLOSIVES
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Ignition
Devices. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Impact Ignition
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Electrical
Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Electro-mechanical Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Delays. . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
EXPLOSIVE
CASINGS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Paper
Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Metal
Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Primed Explosive
Casings. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Glass
Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Plastic
Containers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
ADVANCED USES
FOR EXPLOSIVES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Tube Explosives
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Atomized
Particle Explosions. . . . . . . . . . . . 57
SPECIAL
AMMUNITION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Primitive
Weapons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
Firearms . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Compressed
Air/Gas Weapons. . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
ROCKETS AND
CANNONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Rockets . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Cannon. . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
VISUAL
PYROTECHNICS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Smoke Bombs . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Colored Flames.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Fireworks . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
MORE INFORMATION
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
HOUSEHOLD
CHEMICALS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
USEFUL CHEMICALS
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
FUEL-OXIDIZER
MIXTURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
USEFUL
PYROCHEMISTRY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
SAFETY
Safety is an
important concern in many activities, but it is even more
important when
working with explosives and related compounds. If you have
an accident with
a power tool you can permanently maim or kill yourself. An
automobile
accident can not only kill yourself, but a dozen or more others
who have the bad
luck to be on the same road as you. When an airplane
crashes, it
often kills not only the passengers on board, but anybody who
happens to have
lived near the crash site. An accidental explosion can be
much destructive
than any of these. Any accident involving explosives is
likely to be
fatal, and a serious accident can, under some circumstances
circumstances,
kill hundreds of people.
There are no
such things as truly "safe" explosive devices. While some
explosives are
less dangerous than others, all such compositions are, by
their very
nature, extremely hazardous.
Basic Safety
Rules
1) Don't smoke!
(don't laugh- an errant cigarette wiped out the
Weathermen).
Avoid open flames, especially when working with flammable
liquids or
powdered metals.
2) Grind all
ingredients separately. It is alarming how friction
sensitive some
supposedly safe compositions really are. Grinding causes heat
and possibly
sparks, both of which can initiate an explosion.
3) Start with
very small quantities. Even small quantities of high
explosives can
be very dangerous. Once you have some idea of the power of
the explosive,
you can progress to larger amounts. Store high explosives
separately from
low explosives, and sensitive devices, such as blasting
caps, should be
stored well away from all flammable or explosive material.
4) Allow for a
20% margin of error. Never let your safety depend on
the expected
results. Just because the average burning rate of a fuse is 30
secs/foot, don't
depend on the 6 inches sticking out of your pipe bomb to
take exactly 15
seconds.
5) Never
underestimate the range of your shrapnel. The cap from a
pipe bomb can
often travel a block or more at high velocities before coming
to rest- If you
have to stay nearby, remember that if you can see it, it can
kill you.
6) At the least,
take the author's precautions. When mixing sensitive
compounds (such
as flash powder) avoid all sources of static electricity.
Work in an area
with moderate humidity, good ventilation, and watch out for
sources of
sparks and flame, which can ignite particles suspended in the
air. Always
follow the directions given and never take shortcuts.
7) Buy quality
safety equipment, and use it at all times. Always wear
a face shield,
or at the minimum, shatterproof lab glasses. It's usually a
good idea to
wear gloves when handling corrosive chemicals, and a lab apron
can help prevent
life-threatening burns.
How To Mix Dry
Ingredients
The best way to
mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to use
a technique
perfected by small-scale fireworks manufacturers:
1) Take a large
sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a
newspaper that
does not use staples)
2) Measure out
the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour
them in two
small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet.
3) Pick up the
sheet by the two corners near the piles, allowing the
powders to roll
towards the center of the sheet.
4) By raising
one corner and then the other, rock the powders back and
forth in the
middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture
spill from
either of the loose ends.
5) Pour the
powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use it
immediately. Use
airtight containers for storage, It's best to use 35mm film
canisters or
other jars which do not have screw-on tops. If you must keep
the mixture for
long periods, place a small packet of desiccant in the
container, and
never store near heat or valuable items.
BUYING
EXPLOSIVES AND PROPELLANTS
Almost any city
or town of reasonable size has a gun store and one or
more drugstores.
These are two of the places that serious pyrotechnicians
can visit to
purchase potentially explosive material. All that one has to
do is know
something about the mundane uses of the substances.
Black powder,
for example, is normally used in blackpowder firearms.
It comes in
varying grades, with each different grade being a slightly
different size.
The grade of black powder depends on what the calibre of
the gun that it
is intended for; a fine grade of powder could burn too fast
in the wrong
caliber weapon. The rule is: the smaller the grade, the faster
the burn rate of
the powder.
Propellants
There are many
varieties of powder used as propellants, and many of
these can be
adapted for use in explosive devices. Propellants are usually
selected for
stability and high gas production, and can be very effective
if used in a
strong container. Some propellants, such as nitrocellulose,
burn at a much
higher rate when under pressure, while others burn at
basically the
same rate in the open and when confined.
Black Powder
Black powder is
commonly available in four grades. The smaller, faster
burning sizes
are more difficult to find than the large, slow grades. The
powder's burn
rate is extremely important when it is to be used in
explosives.
Since an explosion is a rapid increase of gas volume in a
confined
environment, quick-burning powder is desired. The four common
grades of black
powder are listed below, along with the usual bore width
(calibre) of the
gun they would be used in. Generally, the fastest burning
powder, the FFFF
grade is desirable for explosives, and the larger grades
are used as
propellants.
The FFFF grade
is the fastest burning, because the smaller grade has
more surface
area exposed to the flame front, allowing the flame to
propagate
through the material much faster than it could if a larger sized
powder was used.
The price range of black powder is about $8.50 - $9.00 per
pound. The price
per pound is the same regardless of the grade, so you can
save time and
work by buying finer grade of powder.
There are
several problems with using black powder. It can be
accidentally
ignited by static electricity or friction, and that it has a
tendency to
absorb moisture from the air. To safely crush it, you should
use a plastic or
wooden spoon and a wooden salad bowl. Taking a small pile
at a time,
slowly apply pressure to the powder through the spoon and rub it
in a series of
light strokes or circles. It is fine enough to use when it
reaches the
consistency of flour.
The particle
size needed is dependent on the type of device it is
going to be used
in. The size of the grains is less important in large
devices, and in
large strong casings coarse grained powder will work. Any
adult can
purchase black powder, since anyone can own black powder firearms
in the United
States.
PYRODEX*
Pyrodex is a
synthetic powder that is used like black powder, and
which can be
substituted by volume for standard blackpowder. It comes in
the many of the
standard grades, but it is more expensive per pound.
However, a one
pound container of pyrodex contains more material by volume
than one pound
of black powder. Pyrodex is much easier to crush to a very
fine powder than
black powder, and it is considerably safer and more
reliable. This
is because Pyrodex is less sensitive to friction and static
electricity, and
it absorbs moisture more slowly than black powder. Pyrodex
can be crushed
in the same manner as black powder, or it can be dissolved
in boiling water
and dried in the sun.
Rifle/Shotgun
Powder
Rifle and
shotgun propellants are usually nitrocellulose based with
additives to
modify the burning rate. They will be referred to as smokeless
powder in all
future references. Smokeless powder is made by the action of
concentrated
nitric and sulfuric acid upon cotton or some other cellulose
material, a
process that is described on page 19. This material is then
dissolved by
solvents and then reformed in the desired grain size.
When dealing
with smokeless powder, the grain size is not nearly as
important as
that of black powder. Both large and small grained powders burn
fairly slowly
compared to black powder when unconfined, but when it is
confined,
smokeless burns both hotter and produces a greater volume of gas,
producing more
pressure. Therefore, the grinding process that is often
necessary for
other propellants is not necessary for smokeless.
Smokeless powder
costs slightly more than black powder. In most states
any citizen with
a valid driver's license can buy it, since there are
currently few
restrictions on rifles or shotguns in the U.S. There are now
ID checks in
many states when purchasing powder at a retail outlet, however
mail order
purchases from another state are not subject to such checks. When
purchased by
mail order propellants must be shipped by a private carrier,
since the Postal
Service will not carry hazardous materials. Shipping
charges will be
high, due to Department Of Transportation regulations on
packaging
flammable and explosive materials.
Rocket Engine
Powder
Model rocketry
is an popular hobby in the United States and many other
countries.
Estes*, the largest producer of model rocket kits and engines,
takes great
pains to ensure that their engines are both safe and reliable.
The simple
design of these engines makes it very easy to extract the
propellant
powder.
Model rocket
engines contain a single large grain of propellant. This
grain is encased
in heavy cardboard tubing with a clay cap at the top and
a clay or
ceramic nozzle in the bottom. The propellant can be removed by
slitting the
tube lengthwise, and unwrapping it like you would a roll of
paper towels.
When this is done, the grey fire clay at either end of the
propellant grain
should be removed. This can be done by either cracking it
off with a sharp
bow, or by gently prying with a plastic or brass knife.
The engine
material consists of three stages. First the large fuel stage,
which is at the
end nearest the nozzle. Above this is the delay stage, which
may not be found
in some engines. This stage burns slowly and produces a
large amount of
smoke. Last is the ejection charge, which normally would
produce gases to
push the parachute out through the top of the rocket.
The propellant
material contains an epoxy which makes it exceptionally
hard, so it must
be crushed to a fine powder before it can be used.be used.
By double
bagging the propellant in small plastic bags and gripping it in
a pliers or
small vise, the powder can be carefully crushed without
shattering all
over. This process should be repeated until there are no
remaining
chunks, after which it may be crushed in the same manner as black
powder.
Model rocket
engines come in various sizes, ranging from ¼A -2T to the
incredibly
powerful D engines. The larger engines are much more expensive,
and each letter
size contains about twice as much propellant as the previous
one. The D
engines come in packages of three, and contain more powder than
lesser engines.
These engines are also very useful without modification.
Large engines
can be used to create very impressive skyrockets and other
devices.
Explosives
There are many
commercially available materials which are either used
as explosives,
or which are used to produce explosives. Materials which are
used to produce
explosives are known as "precursors", and some of them are
very difficult
to obtain. Chemical suppliers are not stupid, and they will
notice if a
single person orders a combination of materials which can be
used to produce
a common explosive. Most chemicals are available in several
grades, which
vary by the purity of the chemical, and the types of
impurities
present. In most cases lab grade chemicals are more than
sufficient.
There are a few primitive mixtures which will work even with
very impure
chemicals, and a few which require technical grade materials.
Ammonium Nitrate
Ammonium nitrate
is a high explosive material that is used as a
commercial
"safety explosive". It is very stable, and is difficult to ignite
with a match,
and even then will not explode under normal circumstances. It
is also
difficult to detonate; (the phenomenon of detonation will be
explained later)
as it requires a powerful shockwave to cause it act as a
high explosive.
Commercially,
ammonium nitrate is sometimes mixed with a small amount
of
nitroglycerine to increase its sensitivity. A versatile chemical,
ammonium nitrate
is used in the "Cold-Paks" or "Instant Cold", available in
most drug
stores. The "Cold Paks" consist of a bag of water, surrounded by
a second plastic
bag containing the ammonium nitrate. To get the ammonium
nitrate, simply
cut off the top of the outside bag, remove the plastic bag
of water, and
save the ammonium nitrate in a well sealed, airtight
container. It is
hygroscopic, (it tends to absorb water from the air) and
will eventually
be neutralized if it is allowed to react with water, or used
in compounds
containing water. Ammonium nitrate may also be found in many
fertilizers.
Flash Powder
Flash powder is
a mixture of powdered aluminum or magnesium metal and
one of any
number of oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks,
and should be
treated with more care than black powder, and under no
circumstances
should it be mixed with black powder or any other explosives.
Small quantities
of flash powder can be purchased from magic shops and
theatrical
suppliers in the form of two small containers, which must be
mixed before
use. Commercial flash powder is not cheap but it is usually
very reliable.
There are three speeds of flash powder commonly used in
magic, however
only the fast flash powder can be used to create reliable
explosives.
Flash powder
should always be mixed according to the method given at
the beginning of
the book, and under no circumstances should it be shaken
or stored in any
packaging which might carry static electricity.
PREPARATION OF
CHEMICALS
While many
chemicals are not easily available in their pure form, it
is sometimes
possible for the home chemist to partially purify more easily
available
sources of impure forms of desired chemicals.
Most liquids are
diluted with water, which can be removed by
distillation. It
is more difficult to purify solids, but there are a few
methods
available.If the impurity is insoluble in water but the pure
chemical is,
then the solid is mixed into a large quantity of warm water,
and the water
(with the chemical dissolved in it) is saved. The undissolved
impurities
(dregs) are discarded. When the water is boiled off it leaves a
precipitate of
the desired material. If the desired chemical is not water
soluble and the
impurity is, then the same basic procedure is followed, but
in this case the
dregs are saved and the liquid discarded.
Nitric acid
(HNO3)
There are
several ways to make this most essential of all acids for
explosives. It
is often produced by the oxidation of ammonia per the
following
formula:
4NH3 + 5O2 4NO +
6H2O; 2NO + O2 2NO2; 3NO2 + H2O 2HNO3 + NO
If the chemist
has sodium and potassium nitrate available, they can
be used to
convert the much less useful sulfuric acid. While this method can
be used to
produce nitric acid, the process is extremely hazardous, and it
should not be
carried out unless there is no other way to obtain nitric
acid. Do not
attempt this on a larger scale without the use of remote
manipulation
equipment.
Materials
potassium
nitrate ice bath stirring rod
conc sulfuric
acid distilled water retort
collecting flask
with stopper retort (300ml) heat source
sodium nitrate
mortar and pestle
1) Carefully
pour 100 milliliters of concentrated sulfuric acid into
the retort.
2) Weigh out
exactly 185 grams of sodium nitrate, or 210 grams of
potassium
nitrate. Crush to a fine powder in a clean, dry mortar and
pestle, then
slowly add this powder to the retort of sulfuric acid. If all
of the powder
does not dissolve, carefully stir the solution with a glass
rod until the
powder is completely dissolved.
3) Place the
open end of the retort into the collecting flask, and
place the
collecting flask in the ice bath.
4) Begin heating
the retort, using low heat. Continue heating until
liquid begins to
come out of the end of the retort. The liquid that forms
is nitric acid.
Heat until the precipitate in the bottom of the retort is
almost dry, or
until no more nitric acid forms.
CAUTION
If the acid is
heated too strongly, the nitric acid will decompose as
soon as it is
formed. This can result in the production of highly flammable
and toxic gasses
that may explode. It is a good idea to set the above
apparatus up,
and then get away from it.
Sulfuric Acid
(H2SO4)
There are two
common processes used to make sulfuric acid,
unfortunately
neither of them is suitable for small scale production outside
of a laboratory
or industrial plant. The Contact Process utilizes Sulfur
Dioxide (SO2),
an intensely irritating gas.
2SO2 + H2O 2SO3;
SO3 + H2O H2SO4
The Chamber
Process uses nitric oxide and nitrogen dioxide. On contact
with air, nitric
oxide forms nitrogen dioxide, a deadly reddish brown gas.
The reaction
used for production is as follows:
2NO + O2 2NO2;
NO2 + SO2 + H2O H2SO4
Sulfuric acid is
far too difficult to make outside of a laboratory or
industrial
plant. However, it is readily available as it is a major
component of
lead-acid batteries. The sulfuric acid could be poured off from
a new battery,
or purchased from a battery shop or motorcycle store. If the
acid is removed
from a battery there will be pieces of lead from the battery
which must be
removed, either by boiling and filtration. The concentration
of the sulfuric
acid can also be increased by boiling it or otherwise
removing some of
the water from the solution. Very pure sulfuric acid pours
slightly faster
than clean motor oil.
Ammonium Nitrate
Ammonium nitrate
is a very powerful but insensitive high explosive.
It could be made
very easily by pouring nitric acid into a large flask in
an ice bath.
Then, by simply pour household ammonia into the flask and keep
a safe distance
away until the reaction has completed. After the materials
have stopped
reacting, one simply has to leave the solution in a warm dry
place until all
of the water and any neutralized ammonia or acid have
evaporated.
Finely powdered crystals of ammonium nitrate would remain. These
must be kept in
an airtight container, because of their tendency to pick up
water from the
air. The crystals formed in the above process would have to
be heated very
gently to drive off the remaining water before they can be
used.
Potassium
Nitrate
Potassium
nitrate can be obtained from black powder. Simply stir a
quantity of
black powder into boiling water. The sulfur and charcoal will
be suspended in
the water, but the potassium nitrate will dissolve. To
obtain 68g of
potassium nitrate, it would be necessary to dissolve about 90g
of black powder
in about one liter of boiling water.
Filter the
dissolved solution through filter paper until the liquid
that pours
through is clear. The charcoal and sulfur in black powder are
insoluble in
water, and so when the solution is allowed to evaporate, small
crystals of
potassium nitrate will be left in the container.
EXPLOSIVE
FORMULAS
Once again,
persons reading this material should never attempt to
produce any of
the explosives described here. It is illegal and extremely
dangerous to do
so. Loss of life and limbs could easily result from a failed
(or successful)
attempt to produce any explosives or hazardous chemicals.
These procedures
are correct, however many of the methods given here
are usually
scaled down industrial procedures, and therefore may be better
suited to large
scale production.
Explosive Theory
An explosive is
any material that, when ignited by heat, shock, or
chemical
reaction, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process
releases energy
that is stored in the material. The energy, in the form of
heat and light,
is released when the material breaks down into gaseous
compounds that
occupy a much larger volume that the explosive did
originally.
Because this expansion is very rapid, the expanding gasses
displace large
volumes of air. This expansion often occurs at a speed
greater than the
speed of sound, creating a shockwave similar to the sonic
boom produced by
high-speed jet planes.
Explosives occur
in several forms: high order explosives (detonating
explosives),low
order explosives (deflagrating explosives), primers, and
some explosives
which can progress from deflagrating to detonation. All high
order explosives
are capable of detonation. Some high order explosives may
start out
burning (deflagration) and progress to detonation. A detonation
can only occur
in a high order explosive.
Detonation is
caused by a shockwave that passes through a block of the
high explosive
material. High explosives consist of molecules with many
high-energy
bonds. The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between
the atoms of the
material, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of
sound traveling
through that substance. Because high explosives are
generally solids
or liquids, this speed can be much greater than the speed
of sound in air.
Unlike
low-explosives, the fuel and oxidizer in a high-explosive are
chemically
bonded, and this bond is usually too strong to be easily broken.
Usually a primer
made from a sensitive high explosive is used to initiate
the detonation.
When the primer detonates it sends a shockwave through the
high-explosive.
This shockwave breaks apart the bonds, and the chemicals
released
recombine to produce mostly gasses. Some examples of high
explosives are
dynamite, ammonium nitrate, and RDX.
Low order
explosives do not detonate. Instead they burn (undergo
oxidation) at a
very high rate. When heated, the fuel and oxidizer combine
to produce heat,
light, and gaseous products.
Some low order
materials burn at about the same speed under pressure
as they do in
the open, such as blackpowder. Others, such as smokeless
gunpowder (which
is primarily nitrocellulose) burn much faster and hotter
when they are in
a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they
usually burn
much slower than blackpowder when they are ignited in the open.
Blackpowder,
nitrocellulose, and flash powder are common examples of low
order
explosives.
Primers are the
most dangerous explosive compounds in common use. Some
of them, such as
mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order
explosive. They
are chosen because they are more sensitive to friction,
heat, and shock,
than commonly used high or low explosives. Most primers
perform like a
dangerously sensitive high explosive. Others merely burn, but
when they are
confined, they burn at a very high rate and with a large
expansion of
gasses that produces a shockwave. A small amount of a priming
material is used
to initiate, or cause to decompose, a large quantity of
relatively
insensitive high explosives. They are also frequently used as a
reliable means
of igniting low order explosives. The gunpowder in a bullet
is ignited by
the detonation of the primer.
Blasting caps
are similar to primers, but they usually include both
a primer and
some intermediate explosive. Compounds used as primers can
include lead
azide, lead styphnate, diazodinitrophenol or mixtures of two
or more of them.
A small charge of PETN, RDX, or pentolite may be included
in the more
powerful blasting caps, such as those used in grenades. The
small charge of
moderately-sensitive high explosive initiates a much larger
charge of
insensitive high explosive.
Impact
Explosives
Impact
explosives are often used as primers. Of the ones discussed
here, only
mercury fulminate and nitroglycerine are real explosives;
Ammonium
triiodide crystals decompose upon impact, but they release little
heat and no
light. Impact explosives are always treated with the greatest
care, and nobody
without an extreme death wish would store them near any
high or low
explosives.
Ammonium
triiodide crystals (nitrogen triiodide)
Ammonium
triiodide crystals are foul smelling purple colored crystals
that decompose
under the slightest amount of heat, friction, or shock, if
they are made
with the purest ammonia (ammonium hydroxide) and iodine. Such
crystals are so
sensitive that they will decompose when a fly lands on them,
or when an ant
walks across them. Household ammonia, however, has enough
impurities, such
as soaps and abrasive agents, so that the crystals will
detonate only
when thrown, crushed, or heated.
The ammonia
available in stores comes in a variety of forms. The pine
and cloudy
ammonia should not be used; only the strong clear ammonia can be
used to make
ammonium triiodide crystals. Upon detonation, a loud report is
heard, and a
cloud of purple iodine gas will appear. Whatever the
unfortunate
surface that the crystal was detonated upon, it will probably
be ruined, as
some of the iodine in the crystal is thrown about in a solid
form, and iodine
is corrosive. It leaves nasty, ugly, brownish-purple
stains on
whatever it contacts. These stains can be removed with
photographer's
hypo solution, or with the dechlorinating compound sold for
use in fish
tanks.
Iodine fumes are
also bad news, since they can damage your lungs, and
they will settle
to the ground,leaving stains there as well. Contact with
iodine leaves
brown stains on the skin that last for about a week, unless
they are
immediately and vigorously washed off.
Ammonium
triiodide crystals could be produced in the following manner:
Materials
iodine
crystalsfunnel filter paperglass stirring rod
paper towels
clear ammoniatwo glass jarspotassium iodide
1) Place 5 grams
of iodine into one of the glass jars. Because the
iodine is very
difficult to remove, use jars that you don't want to save.
2) Add enough
ammonia to completely cover the iodine. Stir several
times, then add
5 grams of potassium iodide. Stir for 30 seconds.
3) Place the
funnel into the other jar, and put the filter paper in
the funnel. The
technique for putting filter paper in a funnel is taught in
every basic
chemistry lab class: fold the circular paper in half, so that
a semicircle is
formed. Then, fold it in half again to form a triangle with
one curved side.
Pull one thickness of paper out to form a cone, and place
the cone into
the funnel.
4) After
allowing the iodine to soak in the ammonia for a while, pour
the solution
into the paper in the funnel through the filter paper.
5) While the
solution is being filtered, put more ammonia into the
first jar to
wash any remaining crystals into the funnel as soon as it
drains.
6) Collect all
the crystals without touching the brown filter paper,
and place them
on the paper towels to dry. Make sure that they are not too
close to any
lights or other sources of heat, as they could well detonate.
While they are
still wet, divide the wet material into small pieces as large
as your
thumbnail.
To use them,
simply throw them against any surface or place them where
they will be
stepped on or crushed. When the crystals are disturbed they
decompose into
iodine vapor, nitrogen, and ammonia.
3I2 + 5NH4OH 3
NH4I + NH3NI3 + 5H2O
iodine +
ammonium hydroxide ammonium iodide + ammonium nitrogen triiodide + water
The optimal
yield from pure iodine is 54% of the original mass in the
form of the
explosive sediment. The remainder of the iodine remains in the
solution of
ammonium iodide, and can be extracted by extracting the water
(vacuum
distillation is an efficient method) and treating the remaining
product with
chlorine.
Mercury
Fulminate
Mercury
fulminate is perhaps one of the oldest known initiating
compounds. It
can be detonated by either heat or shock. Even the action of
dropping a
crystal of the fulminate can cause it to explode. This material
can be produced
through the following procedure:
MATERIALS
5 g mercury
glass stirring rod blue litmus paper
35 ml conc
nitric acid filter paper small funnel
100 ml beaker
(2) acid resistant gloves heat source
30 ml ethyl
alcohol distilled water
Solvent alcohol
must be at least 95% ethyl alcohol if it is used to
make mercury
fulminate. Methyl alcohol may prevent mercury fulminate from
forming.
Mercury
thermometers are becoming a rarity, unfortunately. They may
be hard to find
in most stores as they have been superseded by alcohol and
other less toxic
fillings. Mercury is also used in mercury switches, which
are available at
electronics stores. Mercury is a hazardous substance, and
should be kept
in the thermometer, mercury switch, or other container until
used. At room
temperature mercury vapor is evolved, and it can be absorbed
through the
skin. Once in your body mercury will cause damage to the brain
and other
organs. For this reason, it is a good idea not to spill mercury,
and to always
use it outdoors. Also, do not get it in an open cut; rubber
gloves will help
prevent this.
1) In one
beaker, mix 5 g of mercury with 35 ml of concentrated nitric
acid, using the
glass rod.
2) Slowly heat
the mixture until the mercury is dissolved, which is
when the
solution turns green and boils.
3) Place 30 ml
of ethyl alcohol into the second beaker, and slowly and
carefully add
all of the contents of the first beaker to it. Red and/or
brown fumes
should appear. These fumes are toxic and flammable.
4) between
thirty and forty minutes after the fumes first appear, they
should turn
white, indicating that the reaction is near completion. After
ten more
minutes, add 30 ml distilled water to the solution.
5) Carefully
filter out the crystals of mercury fulminate from the
liquid solution.
Dispose of the solution in a safe place, as it is
corrosive and
toxic.
6) Wash the
crystals several times in distilled water to remove as
much excess acid
as possible. Test the crystals with the litmus paper until
they are
neutral. This will be when the litmus paper stays blue when it
touches the wet
crystals.
7) Allow the
crystals to dry, and store them in a safe place, far away
from any
explosive or flammable material.
This procedure
can also be done by volume, if the available mercury
cannot be
weighed. Simply use 10 volumes of nitric acid and 10 volumes of
ethanol to every
one volume of mercury.
Nitroglycerin
(C3H5N3O9)
Nitroglycerin is
one of the most sensitive explosives ever to be
commercially
produced. It is a very dense liquid, and is sensitive to heat,
impact, and many
organic materials. Although it is not water soluble, it
will dissolve in
4 parts of pure ethyl alcohol.
Heat of
Combustion: 1580 cal/g
Products of
Explosion: Carbon Dioxide, Water, Nitrogen, Oxygen
Human Toxicity:
Highly toxic vasodilator, avoid skin contact!
Although it is
possible to make it safely, it is difficult to do so
in small
quantities. Many a young pyrotechnician has been killed or
seriously
injured while trying to make the stuff. When Nobel's factories
make it, many
people were killed by the all-to-frequent factory explosions.
Usually, as soon
as nitroglycerin is made, it is converted into a safer
substance, such
as dynamite. A person foolish enough to make
nitroglycerine
could use the following procedure:
EQUIPMENT
distilled water
eyedropper thermometer
1 100 ml beaker
20 g sodium bicarbonate glycerine
3 300 ml beakers
13 ml concentrated nitric acid
blue litmus
paper 39 ml concentrated sulfuric acid
2 ice baths:
2 small
non-metallic containers each filled halfway with:
crushed ice
6 tablespoons
table salt
The salt will
lower the freezing point of the water, increasing the cooling efficiency of the
ice bath.
1) Prepare the
two ice baths. While the ice baths are cooling, pour
150 ml of
distilled water into each of the beakers.
2) Slowly add
sodium bicarbonate to the second beaker, stirring
constantly. Do
not add too much sodium bicarbonate to the water. If some
remains
undissolved, pour the solution into a fresh beaker.
3) Place the 100
ml beaker into the ice bath, and pour the 13 ml of
concentrated
nitric acid into the 100 ml beaker. Be sure that the beaker
will not spill
into the ice bath, and that the ice bath will not overflow
into the beaker
when more materials are added to it. Be sure to have a
large enough
container to add more ice if it gets too warm. Bring the
temperature of
the acid down to 20° centigrade or less.
4) Slowly and
carefully add 39 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the
nitric acid. Mix
well, then cool the mixture to 10° centigrade. Do not be
alarmed if the
temperature rises slightly when the acids are mixed.
5) With the
eyedropper, slowly drip the glycerine onto the acid
mixture, one
drop at a time. Hold the thermometer along the top of the
mixture where
the mixed acids and glycerine meet.
The glycerine
will start to nitrate immediately, and the temperature
will immediately
begin to rise. Do not allow the temperature to rise above
30° celsius. If
the temperature is allowed to get to high, the nitroglycerin
may decompose
spontaneously as it is formed. Add glycerine until there is
a thin layer of
glycerine on top of the mixed acids.
6) Stir the
mixture for the first ten minutes of nitration, if
neccessary
adding ice and salt to the ice bath to keep the temperature of
the solution in
the 100 ml beaker well below 30°. The nitroglycerine will
form on the top
of the mixed acid solution, and the concentrated sulfuric
acid will absorb
the water produced by the reaction.
7) When the
reaction is over, the nitroglycerine should be chilled to
below 25°. You
can now slowly and carefully pour the solution of
nitroglycerine
and mixed acid into the beaker of distilled water in the
beaker . The
nitroglycerine should settle to the bottom of the beaker, and
the water-acid
solution on top can be poured off and disposed of. Drain as
much of the
acid-water solution as possible without disturbing the
nitroglycerine.
8) Carefully
remove a small quantity of nitroglycerine with a clean
eye-dropper, and
place it into the beaker filled in step 2. The sodium
bicarbonate
solution will eliminate much of the acid, which will make the
nitroglycerine
less likely to spontaneously explode. Test the
nitroglycerine
with the litmus paper until the litmus stays blue. Repeat
this step if
necessary, using new sodium bicarbonate solutions each time.
9) When the
nitroglycerine is as acid-free as possible, store it in
a clean
container in a safe place. The best place to store nitroglycerine
is far away as
possible from anything of value. Nitroglycerine can explode
for no apparent
reason, even if it is stored in a secure cool place.
Picrates
Although the
procedure for the production of picric acid, or
trinitrophenol
has not yet been given, its salts are described first, since
they are
extremely sensitive, and detonate on impact.
By mixing picric
acid with a warm solution of a metal hydroxide, such
as sodium or
potassium hydroxide, metal picrates are formed. These picrates
are easily
soluble in warm water, (potassium picrate will dissolve in 4
parts water at
100° C), but relatively insoluble in cold water (potassium
picrate will
dissolve in 200 parts water at 10° C). While many of these
picrates are
dangerously impact sensitive, others are almost safe enough for
a suicidal
person to consider their manufacture.
To convert
picric acid into potassium picrate, you first need to
obtain picric
acid, or produce it by following the instructions given on
page 26. If the
acid is in solid form it should be mixed with 10% water (by
weight).
Prepare a
moderately strong (6 mole) solution of potassium hydroxide,
and heat it
until it almost reaches a slow boil. Lower the temperature 10
degrees, and
slowly add the picric acid solution. At first the mixture
should bubble
strongly, releasing carbon dioxide. when the bubbles cease
stop adding
picric acid. Cool the solution to 10° C. Potassium picrate will
crystallize out.
The solution should be properly disposed of.
These crystals
are impact-sensitive, and can be used as an initiator
for any type of
high explosive. The crystals should be stored in a plastic
or glass
container under distilled water.
Low Order
Explosives
Low order
explosives can be defined as a single compound of mixture
of compounds
which burns at a high rate producing a large amount of gas,
which is usually
accompanied by heat and light. Most have the following
components.
An oxidizer:
This can be any chemical which contains a large
amount of
oxygen. When heated the oxidizer gives up this oxygen.
A fuel: The fuel
is often carbon, or a finely powdered metal.
It is the
material that does the actual burning.
A catalyst: The
catalyst makes it easier for the oxidizer to
react with the
fuel, and is mandatory for many of the less powerful
explosives. Not
all low explosives need a catalyst, and in many cases
(such as flash
powder) adding a catalyst can make the explosive
dangerously
sensitive.
There are many
low-order explosives that can be purchased in gun
stores and used
in explosive devices. However, it is possible that a wise
store owner
would not sell these substances to a suspicious-looking
individual. Such
an individual would then be forced to resort to making his
own low-order
explosives.
There are many
common materials which can be used to produce low
explosives. With
a strong enough container, almost any mixture of an
oxidizer and a
fuel can be used to make an explosive device.
Black Powder
First made by
the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first
used in weapons
and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to
make, but it is
not very powerful or safe. Only about half the mass of
black powder is
converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half
is released as
very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major
danger: it can
be ignited by static electricity. This is very hazardous,
and it means
that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools to
avoid generating
a static charge.
MATERIALS
75 g potassium
nitrate distilled water
charcoal wooden
salad bowl
10 g sulfur
wooden spoon
heat source
breathing filter
grinding bowl 3
plastic bags
500 ml beaker
fine mesh screen
1) Place a small
amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the
grinding bowl
and grind it to a very fine powder. Grind all of the
potassium or
sodium nitrate, and pass it through the screen to remove any
large particles.
Store the sifted powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Repeat step
one with the sulfur and charcoal, being careful to
grind each
chemical with a clean bowl and tool. store each chemical in a
separate plastic
bag.
3) Place all of
the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the
beaker, and add
just enough boiling water to the chemical to moisten it
uniformly.
4) Add the
contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or
sodium nitrate,
and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there
is no more
visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally
black.
5) On a warm
sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight.
Sunlight is
really the best way to dry black powder, since it is seldom too
hot, but it is
usually hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Using a
wooden tool, scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and
store it in a
safe container. Static proof plastic is really the safest
container,
followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag,
since plastic
bags are prone to generate static electricity. If a small
packet of
desiccant is added the powder will remain effective indefinitely.
Nitrocellulose
Nitrocellulose
is commonly called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is
more stable than
black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot
gas. It also
burns much faster than black powder when in a confined space.
Although the
acids used can be very dangerous if safety precautions
are not
followed, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the
following
procedure:
MATERIALS
cotton
(cellulose) (2) 300 ml beakers
small funnel
blue litmus paper
concentrated
nitric acid concentrated sulfuric acid
distilled water
glass rod
1) Pour 10 cc of
concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to
this 10 cc of
concentrated nitric acid.
2) Immediately
add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly
3 minutes.
3) Remove the
nitrated cotton, and transfer it to a beaker of
distilled water
to wash it in.
4) Allow the
material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the
cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is
ready to be
dried and stored.
One common
formula specifies 3 parts sulfuric acid to one part nitric
acid. This has
not been demonstrated to be more effective than equal volumes
of each. Runaway
nitration is commonplace, but it is usually not disastrous.
It has been
suggested that pre-washing the cotton cloth in a solution of
lye, and rinsing
it well in distilled water before nitrating can help
prevent runaway
nitration. If the reaction appears to be more vigorous than
expected, water
will quench the runaway reaction of cellulose.
WARNINGS
All the usual
warnings about strong acids apply. H2SO4 has a tendency
to spatter. When
it falls on the skin, it destroys tissue very painfully.
It dissolves all
manner of clothing. Nitric also damages skin, turning it
bright yellow in
the process of eating away at your flesh. Nitric acid is
a potent
oxidizer and it can start fires. Most strong acids will happily
blind you if you
get them in your eyes, and these are no exception.
Nitrocellulose
decomposes very slowly on storage if isn't correctly
stabilized. The
decomposition is auto-catalyzing, and can result in
spontaneous
explosion if the material is kept confined over time. The
process is much
faster if the material is not washed well enough.
Nitrocellulose
powders contain stabilizers such as diphenyl amine or ethyl
centralite. Do
not allow these to come into contact with nitric acid! A
small amount of
either substance added to the washed product will capture
the small
amounts of nitrogen oxides that result from decomposition. They
therefore
inhibit the autocatalysis. NC eventually will decompose in any
case.
Commercially
produced Nitrocellulose is stabilized by spinning it in
a large
centrifuge to remove the remaining acid, which is recycled. It is
then boiled in
acidulated water and washing thoroughly with fresh water. If
the NC is to be
used as smokeless powder it is boiled in a soda solution,
then rinsed in
fresh water.
The purer the
acid used (lower water content) the more complete the
nitration will
be, and the more powerful the nitrocellulose produced. There
are actually
three forms of cellulose nitrate, only one of which is useful
for pyrotechnic
purposes. The mononitrate and dinitrate are not explosive,
and are produced
by incomplete nitration. The explosive trinatrate is only
formed when the
nitration is allowed to proceed to completion.
Perchlorates
As a rule, any
oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric
acid will become
a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium
or sodium,
become excellent bases for flash type powders. Some materials
that can be
perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce
potassium or
sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal,
e.g. sodium or
potassium hydroxide.
It is a good
idea to test the material to be treated with a very small
amount of acid,
since some of the materials tend to react explosively when
contacted by
picric acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide are
ideal.
Perchlorates are much safer than similar chlorates, and equally as
powerful.
Mixtures made with perchlorates are somewhat more difficult to
ignite than
mixtures containing chlorates, but the increased safety
outweighs this
minor inconvenience.
Flash Powder
Flash powder is
a fast, powerful explosive, and comes very close to
many high
explosives. It is a very hazardous mixture to work with, due to
the sensitivity
of the powder. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks,
and should never
be mixed with other chemicals or black powder. It burns
very rapidly
with a intense white flash, and will explode if confined. Large
quantities may
explode even when not confined. This is because a large pile
of flash powder
is self-confining, causing the explosion. Flash powder is
commonly made
with aluminum and/or magnesium. Other metals can be used, but
most others are
either two expensive (zirconium) or not reactive enough to
be effective
(zinc)
Here are a few
basic precautions to take if you're crazy enough to
produce your own
flash powder:
1) Grind the
oxidizer (KNO3, KClO3, KMnO4, KClO4 etc) separately in a
clean container.
If a mortar and pestle is used, it should be washed out
with alcohol
before being used to grind any other materials.
2) NEVER grind
or sift the mixed composition. Grinding and sifting can
cause friction
or static electricity.
3) Mix the
powders on a large sheet of paper, by rolling the
composition back
and forth. This technique is described in detail on page
3
4) Do not store
flash compositions for any amount of time. Many
compounds,
especially ones containing magnesium, will decompose over time
and may ignite
spontaneously.
5) Make very
small quantities at first, so you can appreciate the
power of such
mixtures. Quantities greater than 10 grams should be avoided.
Most flash
powders are capable of exploding if a quantity of more than 50
grams is ignited
unconfined, and all flash powders will explode even with
minimal
confinement (I have seen 10 g of flash wrapped in a single layer of
waxed paper
explode)
6) Make sure
that all the components of the mixture are as dry as
possible. Check
the melting point of the substances, and dry them
(separately) in
a warm oven. If KNO3 is used it must be very pure and dry,
or it will
evolve ammonia fumes.
Almost any
potent oxidizer can be used for flash powder. Some
materials may
react with the fuel, especially if magnesium is used. KClO4
with Al is
generally found in commercial fireworks, this does not mean that
it is safe, but
it is safer than KClO3 if handled correctly.
The finer the
oxidizer and the finer the metal powder the more
powerful the
explosive, except in the case of aluminum. This of course will
also increase
the sensitivity of the flash powder. Beyond a certain point,
the finer the
aluminum powder the less powerful the explosive, due to the
coating of
aluminum oxide which forms on the surface of the aluminum
granules.
NOTE: Flash
powder in any container will detonate. This includes even
a couple of
layers of newspaper, or other forms of loosely confined flash.
Potassium
perchlorate is safer than sodium/potassium chlorate.
High Order
Explosives
High order
explosives can be made in the home without too much
difficulty. The
main problem is acquiring the nitric acid to produce the
high explosive.
Most high explosives detonate because their molecular
structure is
made up of some fuel and usually three or more nitrogen dioxide
molecules.
Trinitrotoluene is an excellent example of such a material. When
a shock wave
passes through an molecule of T.N.T., the nitrogen dioxide bond
is broken, and
the oxygen combines with the fuel, all in a matter of
microseconds.
This accounts for the great power of nitrogen-based
explosives.
Remembering that these procedures are never to be carried out,
several methods
of manufacturing high-order explosives in the home are
listed.
R.D.X.
R.D.X., (also
called cyclonite, or composition C-1 when mixed with
plasticisers) is
one of the most valuable of all military explosives. This
is because it
has more than 150% of the power of T.N.T., and is much easier
to detonate. It
should not be used alone, since it can be set off by a
moderate shock.
It is less sensitive than mercury fulminate or
nitroglycerine,
but it is still too sensitive to be used alone.
R.D.X. can be
produced by the method given below. It is much easier
to make in the
home than all other high explosives, with the possible
exception of
ammonium nitrate.
MATERIALS
hexamine or
methenamine 1000 ml beaker ice bath
glass stirring
rod thermometer funnel
filter paper
distilled water ammonium nitrate
nitric acid (550
ml) blue litmus paper small ice bath
1) Place the
beaker in the ice bath, (see page 15) and carefully pour
550 ml of
concentrated nitric acid into the beaker.
2) When the acid
has cooled to below 20°, add small amounts of the
crushed fuel
tablets to the beaker. The temperature will rise, and it must
be kept below
30°, or dire consequences could result. Stir the mixture.
3) Drop the
temperature below zero degrees celsius, either by adding
more ice and
salt to the old ice bath, or by creating a new ice bath.
Continue
stirring the mixture, keeping the temperature below zero for twenty
minutes.
4) Pour the
mixture into 1 liter of crushed ice. Shake and stir the
mixture, and
allow it to melt. Once it has melted, filter out the crystals,
and dispose of
the corrosive liquid.
5) Place the
crystals into one half a liter of boiling distilled
water. Filter
the crystals, and test them with the blue litmus paper.
Repeat steps 4
and 5 until the litmus paper remains blue. This will make
the crystals
more stable and safe.
6) Store the
crystals wet until ready for use. Allow them to dry
completely
before using them. R.D.X. is not stable enough to use alone as
an explosive.
Composition C-1
can be made by mixing (measure by weight)
R.D.X. 88%
mineral oil11%
lecithin 1%
Knead these
material together in a plastic bag. This is one way to
desensitize the
explosive.
HMX. is a
mixture of TNT and RDX; the ratio is 50/50, by weight. it
is not as
sensitive as unadultered RDX and it is almost as powerful as
straight RDX.
By adding
ammonium nitrate to the crystals of RDX produced in step 5,
it is possible
to desensitize the R.D.X. and increase its power, since
ammonium nitrate
is very insensitive and powerful. Sodium or potassium
nitrate could
also be added; a small quantity is sufficient to stabilize the
RDX.
RDX. detonates
at a rate of 8550 meters/second when it is compressed
to a density of
1.55 g/cubic cm.
Ammonium Nitrate
(NH4NO3)
Ammonium nitrate
can be made by following the method given on page 10,
or it could be
obtained from a construction site, since it is commonly used
in blasting,
because it is very stable and insensitive to shock and heat.
A well-funded
researcher could also buy numerous "Instant Cold-Paks" from
a drug store or
medical supply store. The major disadvantage with ammonium
nitrate, from a
pyrotechnical point of view, is detonating it. A rather
powerful priming
charge must be used, or a booster charge must be added.
[ ILLUSTRATIONS
AVAILABLE ONLY IN COMMERICIAl PRINTED RELEASE ]
The primer
explodes, detonating the T.N.T., which detonates, sending
a tremendous
shockwave through the ammonium nitrate, detonating it.
Ammonium Nitrate
- Fuel Oil Solution
Ammonium Nitrate
- Fuel Oil Solution, also known as ANFO, is a
commonly used
high explosive. ANFO solves one of the major problem with
ammonium
nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This
absorption
results in the explosive failing to detonate when fired. This is
less of a
problem with ANFO because it consists of 94% (by weight) ammonium
nitrate mixed
with 6% fuel oil (kerosene). The kerosene helps keep the
ammonium nitrate
from absorbing moisture from the air.
This mixture,
like straight ammonium nitrate, is very insensitive to
shock. It
requires a very powerful shockwave to detonate it, and is not very
effective in
small quantities. Usually a booster charge, consisting of
dynamite or a
commercial cast charge, is used for reliable detonation. Some
commercial ANFO
explosives have a small amount of aluminum added, increasing
the power and
sensitivity. These forms can often be reliably initiated by
a No. 8 blasting
cap.
These
disadvantages are outweighed by two important advantages of
ammonium nitrate
explosives- cost, and safety. In industrial blasting these
factors are much
more important than in recreational activities, and this
has contributed
to the popularity of these explosives. If the explosive is
initiated
without confinement it not propagate well, and most of the
ammonium nitrate
will burn and scatter, rather than detonation as most other
high explosives
would.
Ammonium nitrate
explosives are much cheaper per pound than most other
explosives, with
the price per pound at about 1/10 that of dynamite.
Straight
ammonium nitrate can be transported to the blasting site without
the extract
expenses incurred when transporting high explosives. At the
site, the
ammonium nitrate, in the form of small pellets, or prills, can be
mixed with the
fuel oil just prior to blasting.
If too much oil
is added the power of the mixture will decrease,
because the
extra oil will absorb some of the energy from the ammonium
nitrate, and it
tends to slow propagation. If commercial fertilizer is used
to provide the
ammonium nitrate, it must be crushed to be effective. This
is because
fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate is coated with a water
resistant
substance which helps keep moisture from decomposing the material.
This material
also keeps the fuel oil from soaking into the ammonium
nitrate.
If fertilizer
grade material is poured into a vat of warm, liquified
wax, the coating
will be displaced by the wax, which can also serve as fuel
for the ammonium
nitrate. This form is more sensitive than the fuel oil
mixture, and
does not require as much confinement as ANFO.
Trinitrotoluene
T.N.T., or 2,4,6
trinitrotoluene, is perhaps the second oldest known
high explosive.
Dynamite, of course, was the first. T.N.T. is certainly the
best known high
explosive, since it has been popularized by early morning
cartoons, and
because it is used as a standard for comparing other
explosives.
In industrial
production TNT is made by a three step nitration process
that is designed
to conserve the nitric and sulfuric acids, so that the only
resource
consumed in quantity is the toluene. A person with limited funds,
however, should
probably opt for the less economical two step method. This
process is
performed by treating toluene with very strong (fuming) sulfuric
acid. Then, the
sulfated toluene is treated with very strong (fuming) nitric
acid in an ice
bath. Cold water is added to the solution, and the T.N.T. is
filtered out.
Potassium
Chlorate (KClO3)
Potassium
chlorate itself cannot be made in the home, but it can be
obtained from
labs and chemical supply houses. It is moderately water
soluble, and
will explode if brought into contact with sulfuric acid. It is
toxic and should
not be brought into contact with organic matter, including
human skin.
If potassium
chlorate is mixed with a small amount of vaseline, or
other petroleum
jelly, and a shockwave is passed through it, the material
will detonate,
however it is not very powerful, and it must be confined to
explode it in
this manner. The procedure for making such an explosive is
outlined below:
MATERIALS
potassium
chlorate zip-lock plastic bag wooden spoon
petroleum jelly
grinding bowl wooden bowl
1) Grind the
potassium chlorate in the grinding bowl carefully and
slowly, until
the potassium chlorate is a very fine powder. The finer the
powder, the
faster it will detonate, but it will also decompose more
quickly.
2) Place the
powder into the plastic bag. Put the petroleum jelly
into the plastic
bag, getting as little on the sides of the bag as possible,
i.e. put the
vaseline on the potassium chlorate powder.
3) Close the
bag, and knead the materials together until none of the
potassium
chlorate is dry powder that does not stick to the main glob. If
necessary, add a
bit more petroleum jelly to the bag.
Over time the
this material will decompose, and if not used
immediately the
strength will be greatly reduced.
Dynamite
(various compositions)
The name
dynamite comes from the Greek word "dynamis", meaning power.
Dynamite was
invented by Nobel shortly after he made nitroglycerine. He
tried soaking
the nitroglycerine into many materials, in an effort to reduce
its sensitivity.
In the process, he discovered that Nitrocellulose would
explode if
brought into contact with fats or oils. A misguided individual
with some sanity
would, after making nitroglycerine would immediately
convert it to
dynamite. This can be done by adding one of a number of inert
materials, such
as sawdust, to the raw nitroglycerine. The sawdust holds a
large weight of
nitroglycerine. Other materials, such as ammonium nitrate
could be added,
and they would tend to desensitize the explosive, while
increasing the
power. But even these nitroglycerine compounds are not really
safe.
One way to
reliably stabilize nitroglycerin is to freeze it. In its
frozen state,
nitroglycerine is much less sensitive to shock, and can safely
be transported.
The only drawback to this method is that the nitroglycerine
may explode
spontaneously while being thawed.
Nitrostarch
Explosives
Nitrostarch
explosives are simple to make, and are fairly powerful.
All that need be
done is treat any of a number of starches with a mixture
of concentrated
nitric and sulfuric acids. Nitrostarch explosives are of
slightly lower
power than T.N.T., but they are more readily detonated.
MATERIALS
filter
paperpyrex container (100 ml)distilled water
glass rod 20 ml
concentrated sulfuric acidacid-resistant gloves
1 g starch20 ml
concentrated nitric acid
1) Add
concentrated sulfuric acid to an equal volume of concentrated
nitric acid in
the pyrex container. Watch out for splattering acid.
2) Add 1 gram of
starch of starch to the mixture, stirring constantly
with the glass
rod.
3) Carefully add
cold water to dilute the acids, then pour the mixture
through the
filter paper (see page 13). The residue consists of nitrostarch
with a small
amount of acid, and should be washed under cold distilled
water.
Picric Acid
(C6H3N3O7)
Picric acid, or
2,4,6-trinitrophenol is a sensitive compound that can
be used as a
booster charge for moderately insensitive explosives, such as
T.N.T. It is
seldom used for explosives anymore, but it still has
applications in
many industries, including leather production, copper
etching, and
textiles. Picric acid is usually shipped mixed with 20% water
for safety, and
when dried it forms pale yellow crystals.
In small
quantities picric acid deflagrates, but large crystals or
moderate
quantities of powdered picric acid will detonate with sufficient
force to
initiate high explosives (or remove the experimenter's fingers).
Picric acid,
along with all of it's salts, is very dangerous, and should
never be stored
dry or in a metal container. Contact with bare skin should
be avoided, and
ingestion is often fatal.
Picric acid is
fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire
sulfuric and
nitric acid in the required concentration. Simple procedures
for it's
manufacture are given in many college chemistry lab manuals. The
main problem
with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive
and unstable
picrate salts. While some of these salts, such as potassium
picrate are
stable enough to be useful, salts formed with other metals can
be extremely
unstable. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer
form, such as
ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A procedure for
the production
of picric acid is given below.
MATERIALS
variable heat
source ice bathdistilled water
38 ml
concentrated nitric acid filter paper500 ml flaskfunnel
concentrated
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml) 1 L pyrex beaker10g phenolglass rod
1) Place 9.5
grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add
12.5 ml of
concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of
tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling
container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming
the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the
boiling water,
and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about
thirty minutes.
After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to
cool for seven
minutes.
4) After
allowing the flask to cool for 10 minutes. Place the 500 ml
flask with the
mixed acid an phenol in the ice bath. Add 38 ml of
concentrated
nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the mixture constantly.
A vigorous
reaction should occur. When the reaction slows, take the flask
out of the ice
bath.
5) Warm the ice
bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling
more tap water.
Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling
water, and heat
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of
cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it
in an ice bath
until it is cold.
7) Filter out
the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the
solution through
the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and
dispose of it in
a safe place, since it is highly corrosive.
8) Wash out the
500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the
contents of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake
vigorously.
9) Re-filter the
crystals, and allow them to dry.
</D